Partscaster project: Updates / photos / advice

[Jay]

https://www.ppgnz.co.nz/pdf/262.pdf says it is nitro...

[Bg]

https://www.ppgnz.co.nz/pdf/262.pdf says it is nitro...

FAKE DATA!!!!

[robthemac]

First positive step: gluing the cracks in the neck.

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Turns out the existing holes are 3mm width, and the smallest dowels at Mitre10 were 6mm. Not overly keen to drill out more than I have to, especially give how close two are to the edge. Will see if anywhere else has 3mm or 4mm dowels.

[Lostininverness]

Think you got the wrong link, might be this one based on the label:

https://fdocuments.net/document/262-spe ... -july.html

Sorry - don't know how to embed a link.........

Oops, as per Jeans comment.

[Jay]

Fake data in NZ... In 1997? So we taught the orange man? How low can it go?

[Bg]

Fake data in NZ... In 1997? So we taught the orange man? How low can it go?

he could limbo underneath a snakes belly....

[robthemac]

Good outcome from gluing up the crack in the neck. Before and after photos:

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Current drill holes are 3.5mm. Smallest fluted dowels I can buy are 6mm. Can buy non-fluted at 4.5mm.

Options:
1) drill out to 6mm and use fluted dowels
2) drill out to 4.5mm and use non-fluted.

Reluctant to drill out more than I need to, given house close the holes are to the edge. Either way, I'm planning to have the clamp holding the sides together while drilling, minimize the chance of the sides just giving out.

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[H671]

Find a piece of scrap steel plate, drill a 3.5mm hole in it. Cut some thin strips of wood about 4 mm square, taper the ends to get a start in the hole, then hammer them through the hole in the steel plate - instant dowel. You can then scrape the length of the dowel with a hacksaw blade to add flutes.

[robthemac]

Find a piece of scrap steel plate, drill a 3.5mm hole in it. Cut some thin strips of wood about 4 mm square, taper the ends to get a start in the hole, then hammer them through the hole in the steel plate - instant dowel. You can then scrape the length of the dowel with a hacksaw blade to add flutes.

Don't have any steel plates, or a drill that I'm confident would go through steel!

I like your idea of scraping a flat cylinder of wood to add flutes though. I think I'll buy the 4mm dowel and do that.

[Slowy]

Find a piece of scrap steel plate, drill a 3.5mm hole in it. Cut some thin strips of wood about 4 mm square, taper the ends to get a start in the hole, then hammer them through the hole in the steel plate - instant dowel. You can then scrape the length of the dowel with a hacksaw blade to add flutes.

Don't have any steel plates, or a drill that I'm confident would go through steel!

I like your idea of scraping a flat cylinder of wood to add flutes though. I think I'll buy the 4mm dowel and do that.

Scraping's good. If you need more, carve grooves with a scalpel. And don't hammer anything into that hole you've just glued up.

[Jay]

When you are putting the dowels into the holes, make sure you have the sides of the neck clamped with two clamps and 'support' pieces of timber between neck sides and clamps. The support pieces should be about 20mm thick and smooth on the side that touches the neck so you don't force markings into the neck wood. Once you are happy about the setup, only then hammer the dowels in... But first up, you try a couple of dowels in a test hole of exactly the same diameter as the holes in the neck. The dowels should be hammered home without too much effort... they should not slide home but also should not require a sledge hammer. Try the dowels you buy (and flute yourself) in a 3.5 and 4mm test hole and find out what works best. Good luck.

ps - hardly can see the crack so good job there

[mrmofo]

"test hole"

[robthemac]

Thanks all. Managed to get all four in without any additional cracks. Only had one clamp, so adjusted the point where most pressure was applied.

@Slowy, gently hammered in the dowel nearest to the crack with the clamp firmly applied. No harm done!

Will leave it clamped up to dry until tonight, then sand it down.

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[robthemac]

Sanded down the dowels and everything is holding together well.

Getting them flush with the surface is really tricky without taking the finish off (see photos). Does it matter if the surface isn't entirely smooth? I don't mind taking the finish off in that area, but will just leave it if it doesn't make a difference. I can't imagine significant vibration travels on the surface of the neck pocket compared to the screws.

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[Jay]

You could try to scrape the last bits off with stanley knife blade held up almost vertical, or use a very sharp chisel. Then get some yellow foodcolouring and put that on the pine dowel ends. Finish with superglue layers and then level again with a sharp chisel. And then lastly sand from 1000 grit all the way up to, what, 4000?

Personally, i would just get it perfectly level and not worry how i got there