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good job ...now you just have to scallop it haha

Jay wrote: ↑Tue Nov 17, 2020 8:18 pm You could try to scrape the last bits off with stanley knife blade held up almost vertical, or use a very sharp chisel. Then get some yellow foodcolouring and put that on the pine dowel ends. Finish with superglue layers and then level again with a sharp chisel. And then lastly sand from 1000 grit all the way up to, what, 4000?

Personally, i would just get it perfectly level and not worry how i got there

Thanks! Is getting it perfectly flat functional or purely aesthetic? Cos I don't really care how it looks in this spot!

have you seen some of fenders necks? Just take them down with a sharp chisel, its not like anyone is ever going to look in there....

Bg wrote: ↑Tue Nov 17, 2020 8:46 pm have you seen some of fenders necks? Just take them down with a sharp chisel, its not like anyone is ever going to look in there....

I may have used a really rough file on the end of the dowels for this reason.

Looks great Rob, great job

robthemac wrote: ↑Tue Nov 17, 2020 8:39 pm

Jay wrote: ↑Tue Nov 17, 2020 8:18 pm You could try to scrape the last bits off with stanley knife blade held up almost vertical, or use a very sharp chisel. Then get some yellow foodcolouring and put that on the pine dowel ends. Finish with superglue layers and then level again with a sharp chisel. And then lastly sand from 1000 grit all the way up to, what, 4000?

Personally, i would just get it perfectly level and not worry how i got there

Thanks! Is getting it perfectly flat functional or purely aesthetic? Cos I don't really care how it looks in this spot!

functional for sure

So body has arrived and looks great! Excuse shitty lighting, dirty carpet, low res image. It actually does look great in person.

Neck fits as it should. Will get some advice on getting it lined up perfectly down the line.
I don't have any other parts yet, but I've got all the kit ready to finish the body. Am I silly to sand and spray etc before I screw in bridge everything else?

I've decided to fill the grain on the front but leave the mahogany on the back and sides unfilled. I love the look of nitro on unfilled grains, but I want to practice filling grains and sanding before I try and refinish my Strat. The edges of the body are quite sharp so I don't think there'll be an awkward transition point between the different finishing styles in the front and back.

Here's a close-up of the front. Not sure if it's maple as it's very dark, grains see quite closed compared to the mahogany on the back.
This is the grain filler I got. Unfortunately no liquid ones in my area. It's more of a thick putty. My plan is to water it down by maybe 30% before applying with a putty knife or razor blade. Seem reasonable?

Yeah that's fine, just dilute it a little bit and rub it in. Then rub it some more. Dilution will raise the fibres of the wood so you'll need to sand them off, but wait for the water and the filler to totally dry out otherwise you get an ugly slurry in the pores and you'll need to start over.

With regards to making sure the neck is on straight: affix the nut, then tie 2 bits of string in the top and bottom tuner holes to simulate both outer E strings. Tie them to the bridge, which you can affix in place with double sided tape. Now angle the neck around until the string clearance is where you want it. Then clamp it, then drill it.

NippleWrestler wrote: ↑Fri Nov 27, 2020 6:33 am Yeah that's fine, just dilute it a little bit and rub it in. Then rub it some more. Dilution will raise the fibres of the wood so you'll need to sand them off, but wait for the water and the filler to totally dry out otherwise you get an ugly slurry in the pores and you'll need to start over.

With regards to making sure the neck is on straight: affix the nut, then tie 2 bits of string in the top and bottom tuner holes to simulate both outer E strings. Tie them to the bridge, which you can affix in place with double sided tape. Now angle the neck around until the string clearance is where you want it. Then clamp it, then drill it.

Great advice, thanks!

What do you use to rub the filler in? I've heard putty knife, but also razor blades. I was thinking razor blade with surgical forceps would make an easily held and very flat edge. Will be careful to pull away from the blade rather than pushing towards it.

Just use your fingers to rub it in. I use an old credit card to remove excess. I wouldn't use the razor blades, too easy to scratch the wood. If you use it straight on the timber, the walnut filler will impart some colour onto it, so if you want it unfettled, then you will need to seal the bare wood.

And yeah, it is safer to locate and drill for your bridge now before finishing as you aren't using any templates etc. to help. Assuming you're using a top loading bridge?

I always used an old credit card or library card.

Thanks, will use an old credit card.

I'm going to be doing a solid colour, so probably doesn't matter if I apply the filler straight onto wood, right?

Will probably go for top-loading bridge.

Also, as it's gonna take me ages to buy bridge, make pick-guard etc, I think I'll just bash on with painting and accept finish cracks will happen.

Lostininverness wrote: ↑Fri Nov 27, 2020 9:11 am Just use your fingers to rub it in. I use an old credit card to remove excess. I wouldn't use the razor blades, too easy to scratch the wood.

Chortle chortle chortle