I got a heat gun today. Got it to help dry my daughters art project that we did a "pour" paint job on but it was dry. Tried it on one of my guitars today (poly) and holy shit the paint just scrapes off easy as piss...why the hell has it taken me this long to get one?
AiRdAd wrote: What's the story with the two whammy bars?
willow13 wrote:I got a heat gun today. Got it to help dry my daughters art project that we did a "pour" paint job on but it was dry. Tried it on one of my guitars today (poly) and holy shit the paint just scrapes off easy as piss...why the hell has it taken me this long to get one?
Happy heatgun day to you Happy heatgun day to you Happy heatgun day dear Willow Happy heatgun day to you
I used a heatgun to strip my Wolfgang. I placed it carvetop down and proceeded heat the sides which were very stubborn to strip. End result was a very black burnt burst. I've never appreciated the thick sealer used on production guitars so much in my life. It was not good.
I have come down to a new low... fixed a Behringer GX110 amp Also fixed the two broken shafts on the left with some plastic rods which I cut back to fit.
Doesn't sound too bad actually.
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"Many have analyzed the way in which Trump uses simple, accessible language in his speeches – around the level of what an eight-year-old could understand. Some are now suggesting his own processing capabilities might be in line with that."
My just acquired Rockit 50/100 combo chassis on the workbench. The cab appears to be Rimu with the cane grill - nice. This thing when assembled weighs close to a metric ton, I couldn't believe how frickin' heavy it is! I'm replacing the filter caps & fixing a few issues hopefully. Have cleaned her up already, cleaned the jacks, re-flowed/re-terminated most of the power tube wiring & other dodgy looking wiring. You cannot get schematics for these but the power section is apparently similar to a Boogie MKI. But the solid-state pre-amp section is a mystery so if anyone has any info that could help me then please PM.
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Sanded back the first attempt / coat of nitro white on the Strat body and decided to grain-fill. That's drying at the moment. In the mean time I'm researching alternatives to nitro fro a change. Probably won't go with a Tru-Oil finish but this looks nice:
StratMatt wrote:I've done a sealer coat and one round of natural grain filler, just sanding it off now.
Should I finish with Tru Oil or nitro lacquer, I've only got clear though.
Looks like we're at similar stages. Similar questions too. Be interested to see how it comes out regardless of the direction you go in.
I've faffed around enough I can't be arsed sourcing tinted lacquer. I figure if it doesn't turn out as good as expected I can always do a solid colour later.
I'm just back in from the shed. Bit too cold to paint but I still did a bit. Sanded back the grain filler with 400 and gave it a quick coat of Olympic White nitro (aerosol). By next week it'll be nice and dry and I can flat it back before going for a solid colour. Leaning towards faded Shell Pink for which I think a white base might be appropriate. I really want to do it in one coat if I can. If I had access to appropriately tinted clear I might just keep it white but there's more chance of that going wrong that right.
I intend painting the recesses with black, conductive paint so not too worried about scraping-out the old colour. Not going to attempt any relic work. If I can get a super thin finish with a nice shine (not glass-like - that wouldn't look right) that'll do.
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This Strat's got CS69 pickups, a treble bleed, and (once I fit it) a Jesse Davey Kingtone switch. I'll also put a brass block in it just to see what difference that makes.