Self built and self assembly ;)

Moderators: Slowy, Capt. Black

User avatar
BY Bg
#862631
Molly wrote:Well, PAL Coating Remover is a shit product and a fucking waste of $15.


And yet you were clearly over-excited about it!
User avatar
BY Bg
#862633
Seriously though, so much mixed results from paint stripper. Hot air gun is next level, at least it works. And with some poly it actually chips itself off :)

Either is better than sanding though.
User avatar
BY Molly
#862649
Bg wrote:Seriously though, so much mixed results from paint stripper. Hot air gun is next level, at least it works. And with some poly it actually chips itself off :)

Either is better than sanding though.


Poly is easy, as you say, with a heat-gun. I'd much rather strip poly than nitro. Off to Bunnings tomorrow to get some proper stuff.
User avatar
BY willow13
#862650
I got a heat gun today. Got it to help dry my daughters art project that we did a "pour" paint job on but it was dry. Tried it on one of my guitars today (poly) and holy shit the paint just scrapes off easy as piss...why the hell has it taken me this long to get one? :rofl:
User avatar
BY Olderama
#862660
willow13 wrote:I got a heat gun today. Got it to help dry my daughters art project that we did a "pour" paint job on but it was dry. Tried it on one of my guitars today (poly) and holy shit the paint just scrapes off easy as piss...why the hell has it taken me this long to get one? :rofl:

Happy heatgun day to you
Happy heatgun day to you
Happy heatgun day dear Willow
Happy heatgun day to you

:mental:
User avatar
BY dayl
#862661
I used a heatgun to strip my Wolfgang. I placed it carvetop down and proceeded heat the sides which were very stubborn to strip. End result was a very black burnt burst. I've never appreciated the thick sealer used on production guitars so much in my life. It was not good.
BY Jay
#863075
I have come down to a new low... fixed a Behringer GX110 amp :oops:
Also fixed the two broken shafts on the left with some plastic rods which I cut back to fit.

Doesn't sound too bad actually.

GX110 DSCN0083.JPG
GX110 DSCN0083.JPG (2.7 MiB) Viewed 258 times
User avatar
BY MikeC
#863112
My just acquired Rockit 50/100 combo chassis on the workbench. The cab appears to be Rimu with the cane grill - nice. This thing when assembled weighs close to a metric ton, I couldn't believe how frickin' heavy it is! I'm replacing the filter caps & fixing a few issues hopefully. Have cleaned her up already, cleaned the jacks, re-flowed/re-terminated most of the power tube wiring & other dodgy looking wiring. You cannot get schematics for these but the power section is apparently similar to a Boogie MKI. But the solid-state pre-amp section is a mystery so if anyone has any info that could help me then please PM.

Rockit 50-100 Gutshot.jpg
Rockit 50-100 Gutshot.jpg (118.75 KiB) Viewed 239 times
User avatar
BY Molly
#863458
Sanded back the first attempt / coat of nitro white on the Strat body and decided to grain-fill. That's drying at the moment. In the mean time I'm researching alternatives to nitro fro a change. Probably won't go with a Tru-Oil finish but this looks nice:

User avatar
BY StratMatt
#863483
I've done a sealer coat and one round of natural grain filler, just sanding it off now.

Should I finish with Tru Oil or nitro lacquer, I've only got clear though.
Attachments
IMG_20200522_143757.jpg
IMG_20200522_143757.jpg (5.03 MiB) Viewed 139 times
User avatar
BY Molly
#863498
StratMatt wrote:I've done a sealer coat and one round of natural grain filler, just sanding it off now.

Should I finish with Tru Oil or nitro lacquer, I've only got clear though.


Looks like we're at similar stages. Similar questions too. Be interested to see how it comes out regardless of the direction you go in.
User avatar
BY StratMatt
#863500
Molly wrote:
StratMatt wrote:I've done a sealer coat and one round of natural grain filler, just sanding it off now.

Should I finish with Tru Oil or nitro lacquer, I've only got clear though.


Looks like we're at similar stages. Similar questions too. Be interested to see how it comes out regardless of the direction you go in.


I've faffed around enough I can't be arsed sourcing tinted lacquer. I figure if it doesn't turn out as good as expected I can always do a solid colour later.
User avatar
BY Molly
#863517
StratMatt wrote:
Molly wrote:
StratMatt wrote:I've done a sealer coat and one round of natural grain filler, just sanding it off now.

Should I finish with Tru Oil or nitro lacquer, I've only got clear though.


Looks like we're at similar stages. Similar questions too. Be interested to see how it comes out regardless of the direction you go in.


I've faffed around enough I can't be arsed sourcing tinted lacquer. I figure if it doesn't turn out as good as expected I can always do a solid colour later.


I'm just back in from the shed. Bit too cold to paint but I still did a bit. Sanded back the grain filler with 400 and gave it a quick coat of Olympic White nitro (aerosol). By next week it'll be nice and dry and I can flat it back before going for a solid colour. Leaning towards faded Shell Pink for which I think a white base might be appropriate. I really want to do it in one coat if I can. If I had access to appropriately tinted clear I might just keep it white but there's more chance of that going wrong that right.

I intend painting the recesses with black, conductive paint so not too worried about scraping-out the old colour. Not going to attempt any relic work. If I can get a super thin finish with a nice shine (not glass-like - that wouldn't look right) that'll do.

stratish.jpg
stratish.jpg (267.75 KiB) Viewed 111 times


This Strat's got CS69 pickups, a treble bleed, and (once I fit it) a Jesse Davey Kingtone switch. I'll also put a brass block in it just to see what difference that makes.
User avatar
BY Molly
#863522
This is the sort of thing I'd like to be able to achieve but I can't get the yellowed clear.

XX-fender-Stratocaster-1964-olympic-white-003.jpg
XX-fender-Stratocaster-1964-olympic-white-003.jpg (296.96 KiB) Viewed 103 times
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