jeremyb wrote: ↑Thu Apr 14, 2022 9:45 pm
clubhouse wrote: ↑Thu Apr 14, 2022 8:49 pm
jeremyb wrote: ↑Thu Apr 14, 2022 1:29 pm
Tool porn!!! What do you do for a job dude??
Hey Jeremy...are you going to post your knife making mission. I was a big "Forged in Fire" fan (my midweek look-forward-to) before the Choice TV channel was binned. I love making stuff and makers...low tech, high tech, hackers, bodgers, artisans, menders, crafters, fettlers, fiddlers, fudgers...I'd love to get some sort of community fab lab going.
When I get my knife/blade/edge sharpening shit together I'll show you my greenwood slick if you show me your drop-point seax, yeah?
I’ll start a thread tomorrow!! I’ve just bought a Lansky deluxe sharpening kit, excited to try it!
Fabulistic! I upgraded to the Lansky system a few years ago...if you feel yourself falling down the rabbit hole of fine edge fettling, guided systems are great to produce repeatable, and therefore quantifiable, sharpening/honing refinement to your procedure. Get hold of some magnification (loupe or similar handsfree thingy) and check/test your results often...dude, I'm sooo looking forward to your knife journey...I know you'll "do it clean, know what I mean" (Echo and the Bunnymen...Easter reference).
Here's some tool porn for yer...what I'm occupying my tool sharpening habit with this Easter weekend, in-between oogling the drillium, Porsche vid (banana for scale reference...is that still this site's unit of comparison?):
They all date from the 1800s. Forge welded tool edge steel onto softer socket-end steel for shock resistance. They were used before the advent of timber, stud
framing construction and the move to 'rough' carpentry using nails to replace mortice and tenon/pegged joinery. Not often used in A/NZ, if at all. You'd see this construction method in the timber houses from Tudor England and the barns of the eastern US (Amish dudes still build this way).
This was apex tech, back in the day. Slicks weren't struck with a mallet, rather, hand pushed to finish a tenon off like we might use a plane these days. They are deadly sharp, and if dropped, can easily
cut through a leather boot, toes and rubber sole (don't ask me how I know...yeech
). I've got to flatten the backs and bring the bevels back on them all. I'll secondary bevel the cutting edges to 25 or 30 degrees for soft or hard wood use from there. Gonna take hours...