Amp tinkerers and people who aren't afraid of 700 volts or so in here....
Moderators: Slowy, Capt. Black
- Fri Jan 24, 2020 2:22 pm
Cdog wrote:Yes! Exciting developments ahead Mike. Where did you get those goodies from?
Got the chassis kit (as in the pic) from here: http://www.solandfa.com
- Fri Jan 24, 2020 2:29 pm
H671 wrote:I have a JBL E130 available. It has been re-coned before I bought it and has a paper dust cap instead of the metal one. Apparently the paper dust cap takes away some of the ice pickiness. I was using it in my Fender Excelsior, but that has now been sold.
Sounds interesting. How much are you asking for it?
BY H671 - Fri Jan 24, 2020 2:53 pm
- Fri Jan 24, 2020 2:53 pm
I made a typo, it's a JBL K130 15" - 103 Db SPL perfect for surf music. Looking for$150.
Gibson 335, Harmony H671, Epiphone Riviera & EJ200CE, Hagstrom Viking Bass, Doubleneck bass/guitar.
Fender Vibro King, Rivera Clubster 45, SWR California Blonde, Carvin AG100D, Ashton BSK158.
- Fri Jan 24, 2020 3:12 pm
I'll PM you - thanks.
BY Bg - Fri Jan 24, 2020 3:20 pm
- Fri Jan 24, 2020 3:20 pm
paging Mr. Molineaux
codedog wrote:You know you've made it when your name is used as a status label.
- Fri Jan 31, 2020 4:29 pm
'64 Vibroverb chassis is starting to take shape. Drilling done, valve bases installed, heaters wired (far canal, hate it!!!), bias board populated/installed & transformers mounted. After struggling with heater wiring over many builds I'm gonna try and get push-back 18 gauge solid core heater wire for next time. Should make life way easier.
BY Cdog - Sat Feb 01, 2020 4:38 am
BY bender - Sat Feb 01, 2020 7:42 am
- Sat Feb 01, 2020 7:42 am
If you don't add a Master Vol, get a good attenuator- these sound best in the 4-6 range, which can be pretty damn loud.
BY Cdog - Sat Feb 01, 2020 1:09 pm
- Sat Feb 01, 2020 1:09 pm
bender wrote:If you don't add a Master Vol, get a good attenuator- these sound best in the 4-6 range, which can be pretty damn loud.
Cheers, good to know. I look forward to getting to know this amp's personality.
- Mon Feb 03, 2020 3:57 pm
Corey, was this a kit or did you source all the bits individually? And what are those tag boards doing near the 6L6's?
BY Cdog - Mon Feb 03, 2020 7:07 pm
- Mon Feb 03, 2020 7:07 pm
Mike Clayton wrote:Corey, was this a kit or did you source all the bits individually? And what are those tag boards doing near the 6L6's?
Mike, it was a Mojotone kit, but I changed a few things.
To answer your question, the blue things near the power tubes are MOVs, a protection measure for the OT in case of speaker disconnection or other sudden failure. Next to those I have a couple of 1-Ohm resistors in series with the power-tube cathodes (to ground), to make for easy biasing.
There's a few other geeky things going on. Film resistors for better reliability. Switchable speaker impedance for the OT. All PT windings except bias are fused. IEC fused AC inlet. No standby switch, but a NTC thermistor on the Phase line to try reduce inrush current (not convinced it's doing much). 5AR4 rectifier instead of GZ34 to knock down the B+, it's around 430VDC running 5881's instead of 6L6GCs.
- Mon Feb 03, 2020 7:12 pm
Aha, that explains most of the things I saw in the pics including those fuses!
BY PaulWD - Fri Feb 14, 2020 6:48 pm
- Fri Feb 14, 2020 6:48 pm
Just tried this out tonight. It's a 5e3 with robrobinette's mods, master vol, lead and normal channel. Its consideribly easier to overdrive compared to stock 5e3's. It's quite crunchy.
I need to get some more dial bulbs. I am using the old radio dial lights as an indicator.
The radio/pa would have originally done duty in a school or motel
- Fri Feb 14, 2020 6:54 pm
That's kind-of point to point wired with a couple of tag boards. Cool!