Whats on your amp workbench?

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anywhere that can lift - corners or edges, I'll use some CA just to make sure that doesn't happen. Just don't glue your fingers to the seams.

[Reg18]

Being home sick with a combination of boredom and curiosity got me wondering what my Marshall would sound like through the 4x10. I’m becoming quite fond of these Fender 10” Alnico speakers, can cover a lot of genres it would seem. Although the 4x12 has a lot more body overall the 10s are tight!
Video with my findings of this experiment today.

[jeremyb]

10s rule!

[murky]

Sounds good Reg!

[Bg]

Yay, the old girl (5F11 Vibrolux) is breathing again. At some point the power transformer lost a bolt so took the opportunity to fix that, and put a new insulation board under the main board and thats reduced the waviness of the board a bit.

Resoldered a lot of the joints as they were never the best, done hastily with a shit soddering iron. And generally tidied up her innards.

Need some new bolts to affix the chassis, I dropped two somewhere and it was a year ago....

Looking forward to trying an aby with the princeton. Might even treat her to an actual labelling on the controls.

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Can she be classed as a classic now? 14 years old

[Slowy]

Can she be classed as a classic now? 14 years old

No. 14 is still very young.

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Can she be classed as a classic now? 14 years old

No. 14 is still very young.

I feel dirty now, thanks

[NippleWrestler]

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All boxed up after a thorough clean and service of pots, jacks, sockets, switches.

[NippleWrestler]

Some minor mods/restorations to the venerable DC10.

I modded the FX loop from parallel to series so it plays nice with all pedals.

Then I did some circuit mods to restore some high end that's being filtered, increase the gain a little, and restore the taper of the master level pot to a more predictable taper, because as it is it's basically whisper/death switch.

This 22k sits right after the lead channel's tonestack and, with a cap to ground, rolls off some high end. I didn't like it so lifting one leg of the 22k removes the filtering and makes it easily reversible.

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This 220k is in parallel with the input and output (lugs 3 and 2) of the master level control. Again, I've just lifted one end so it's easily reversible.

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I changed a 150k (which had drifted to 120K) with a 220k 1w that sits between v1b and v2a in the dirty channel. Higher value = more gain, going over 290k, or 330k depending on the tubes, would likely turn everything to mush.

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This amp is cool af. Photos aren't exactly macro because the 35mm prime was on the camera and I couldnt be arsed changing it to something longer.

Oh, one more thing. Does anyone have 10x 1k/2w resistors? Vishay Dale would be awesome! I want to replace the screen grids and a couple of others.

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rebuilding my 36watt tmb down to a 18 wattt tmb, anyone got some board I can turret? and some turrets

[NippleWrestler]

I'm trying to replace the filter caps on the mesa (same amp as above pics).

The leads are easy to deal with, but the caps themselves are stuck to the PCB with some white rubbery silicone looking stuff that no amount of pulling will release.

Any ideas on how to deal with it? There's not really any space to get underneath with a scalpel (I've tried).

[jeremyb]

I'm trying to replace the filter caps on the mesa (same amp as above pics).

The leads are easy to deal with, but the caps themselves are stuck to the PCB with some white rubbery silicone looking stuff that no amount of pulling will release.

Any ideas on how to deal with it? There's not really any space to get underneath with a scalpel (I've tried).

Can you cut thru it with dental floss used in a sawing motion?

[MikeC]

I'm trying to replace the filter caps on the mesa (same amp as above pics).

The leads are easy to deal with, but the caps themselves are stuck to the PCB with some white rubbery silicone looking stuff that no amount of pulling will release.

Any ideas on how to deal with it? There's not really any space to get underneath with a scalpel (I've tried).

Cut the plastic cover on the capacitor using a sharp Stanley knife then pull the de-soldered (or legs cut) aluminium cap cylinder out of the cover. The cover will remain glued to the board but you'll have access to get it all off.

[NippleWrestler]

I'm trying to replace the filter caps on the mesa (same amp as above pics).

The leads are easy to deal with, but the caps themselves are stuck to the PCB with some white rubbery silicone looking stuff that no amount of pulling will release.

Any ideas on how to deal with it? There's not really any space to get underneath with a scalpel (I've tried).

Cut the plastic cover on the capacitor using a sharp Stanley knife then pull the de-soldered (or legs cut) aluminium cap cylinder out of the cover. The cover will remain glued to the board but you'll have access to get it all off.

That's a very good idea.

Instead I got annoyed and jammed some massive pliers between them, gripped the main body, and twisted rather than pulled. That made short work of it without flexing the PCB.

If the caps weren't done, they're done now.