I had one of those for ages. Built my board around it for years. Was great. Five reorderable loops have so much versatility. The main issue for me was lack of stereo capability. There's actually a lot of programmability with the expression ramping over MIDI if you want to dive down that rabit hole.
Show us your pedalboard
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- robthemac
- Vintage Post Junkie
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- meble-kuchenne.warszawa.pl
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Re: Show us your pedalboard
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- Ashton
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Re: Show us your pedalboard
Thanks. I had my multimeter working previously, but managed to get the rest of the cables sorted easily enough since. Some were just painful, though. First board now complete and working well. Drive heavy, Hot Cake was a gift from my wife 20 years ago and I like it more when playing humbuckers. The Rat & Muff sound awesome with the Tumnus giving them a push. Impressed with the Canvas 15. Lots of clean power.jeremyb wrote: ↑Tue May 06, 2025 6:16 pmI make sure I cut the end of the cable nice and square, no strands hanging out, make sure the screw in the side of the connector is out far enough or the cable doesn't fully go in, then push the cable in firmly, sometimes it kinda clicks into place, then I do up the screw and then repeat the process for the other end.Mr Bungle wrote: ↑Tue May 06, 2025 4:41 pmEver had any issues with cable quality of signal? Got the first few done easily but since having issues getting a quality cable. I have some very short cables in parts of the pedalboard. Around 60-80mm. Struggling to get some of them to provide any signal at alljeremyb wrote: ↑Thu Mar 13, 2025 11:44 am
I use the Harley Benton solderless ones, they are the easiest system in the universe to use, have previously had Lava and Boss solderless ones and these are simpler to make and still sound great, I could never go back to pre-made patch cables, I'm constantly changing stuff around and I love being able to get things just right!
Thomann is the only place you can get the HB stuff and shipping isn't cheap, so buy more than you think you'll need and I always grab some other stuff while I'm at it like a pedal or one of the HB power supplies to make shipping worthwhile![]()
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Next I use my multimeter set to resistance to check tip to sleeve on each end, if there is any measurable resistance on tip to sleeve I will redo the cable, its quite rare but it does happen occasionally... then I measure tip to tip and sleeve to sleeve to make sure I have continuity.
I once had a connector that I couldn't fix by redoing, had a look inside the connector and spotted the pin in the end that the centre conductor goes into was bent, straightened that with a thin screwdriver and it was all good, but thats been one faulty connector out of probably 100 I've used over the years![]()


- jeremyb
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Re: Show us your pedalboard
Aroused. Nice board!!! The Canvas stuff looks super cool, glad it delivers too! Nice to see another TS-9 user, how do you set and use yours?Mr Bungle wrote: ↑Sun May 11, 2025 11:48 pmThanks. I had my multimeter working previously, but managed to get the rest of the cables sorted easily enough since. Some were just painful, though. First board now complete and working well. Drive heavy, Hot Cake was a gift from my wife 20 years ago and I like it more when playing humbuckers. The Rat & Muff sound awesome with the Tumnus giving them a push. Impressed with the Canvas 15. Lots of clean power.jeremyb wrote: ↑Tue May 06, 2025 6:16 pmI make sure I cut the end of the cable nice and square, no strands hanging out, make sure the screw in the side of the connector is out far enough or the cable doesn't fully go in, then push the cable in firmly, sometimes it kinda clicks into place, then I do up the screw and then repeat the process for the other end.Mr Bungle wrote: ↑Tue May 06, 2025 4:41 pm
Ever had any issues with cable quality of signal? Got the first few done easily but since having issues getting a quality cable. I have some very short cables in parts of the pedalboard. Around 60-80mm. Struggling to get some of them to provide any signal at all![]()
Next I use my multimeter set to resistance to check tip to sleeve on each end, if there is any measurable resistance on tip to sleeve I will redo the cable, its quite rare but it does happen occasionally... then I measure tip to tip and sleeve to sleeve to make sure I have continuity.
I once had a connector that I couldn't fix by redoing, had a look inside the connector and spotted the pin in the end that the centre conductor goes into was bent, straightened that with a thin screwdriver and it was all good, but thats been one faulty connector out of probably 100 I've used over the years![]()
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The pills that I've been taking confuse me...
The pills that I've been taking confuse me...