Discuss the stuff that makes your ears bleed.

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#713557
Only bought this amp brand new from a trade me member just over a month ago, today my son and I noticed that the volume started fading in and out on it after half an hour of jamming so I turned the amp off straight away is this an issue with the valves in my amp are they starting to go south on me?. I could not smell any burning smell or anything like that it has been making a hissing noise since I got it so thought that it was normal for it being a class A/B amp it still has the EL84 and 12AX7 ruby valves that it came with when I got it. Still new to valve amps so any advice is appreciated.
#713566
Some of the cubs are prone to something similar which is due to a faulty temperature cutout, do a bit of googling, it's a common complaint :(
#713578
Yep happend with mine
You will have to get it to a repair shop and if under warranty laney will honour it
It's the thermal cut out switch acting to early
#713585
It won't be covered by warranty as I bought it from the original buyer through trademe, I might drop it into shearers musicworks in hamilton on the weekend if I am not working as they are laney dealers and get them to get it looked at for me.
#713601
No worries olderama thanks for that and thanks to everyone who has given their input it is highly appreciated as I was going to order some new valves for the amp at least I waited to hear from you guys who have more experience about valve amps before going in like a bull at a gate and spending unnecessary money, stupid thing is I used the 15 watt input today and only the second time I have used it at full wattage as I normally use the 1 watt input and it has been sweet on that but this arvo I wanted to get loud seeing I was rained off from work and that's when the SHTF after 30 mins of playing stuff from ac/dc, dragon, neil young and the misfits and my MIM fender strat with its CS69's was sounding real sweet too.
#713989
Dropped amp head off at shearers today to get thermo switch replaced and while it is with the tech I am also going to get the fuse shifted off the circuit board of the amp to the rear of the amp where it can be accessed without having to pull the amp apart should I ever have to replace a fuse.
#827371
stratkiwi wrote:Dropped amp head off at shearers today to get thermo switch replaced and while it is with the tech I am also going to get the fuse shifted off the circuit board of the amp to the rear of the amp where it can be accessed without having to pull the amp apart should I ever have to replace a fuse.


Sorry to dig this up but.... how did this go - did this fix it? Did they just remove the thermal component and put a jumper in, or replace it with a more reliable one?

I've have my Cub10 in the cupboard for years and might look at getting it fixed (DIY).
#827390
MogwaiBoy wrote:
stratkiwi wrote:Dropped amp head off at shearers today to get thermo switch replaced and while it is with the tech I am also going to get the fuse shifted off the circuit board of the amp to the rear of the amp where it can be accessed without having to pull the amp apart should I ever have to replace a fuse.


Sorry to dig this up but.... how did this go - did this fix it? Did they just remove the thermal component and put a jumper in, or replace it with a more reliable one?

I've have my Cub10 in the cupboard for years and might look at getting it fixed (DIY).


That’s funny, I just dusted off my Cub10 this week. Mine works fine (actually sounds great) but has too much rattle for me to deal with.
#827392
Delayman wrote:
MogwaiBoy wrote:
stratkiwi wrote:Dropped amp head off at shearers today to get thermo switch replaced and while it is with the tech I am also going to get the fuse shifted off the circuit board of the amp to the rear of the amp where it can be accessed without having to pull the amp apart should I ever have to replace a fuse.


Sorry to dig this up but.... how did this go - did this fix it? Did they just remove the thermal component and put a jumper in, or replace it with a more reliable one?

I've have my Cub10 in the cupboard for years and might look at getting it fixed (DIY).


That’s funny, I just dusted off my Cub10 this week. Mine works fine (actually sounds great) but has too much rattle for me to deal with.


You mean valve rattle? Just curious because I also had this issue with my Cub12R.
#827399
codedog wrote:
Delayman wrote:
MogwaiBoy wrote:
Sorry to dig this up but.... how did this go - did this fix it? Did they just remove the thermal component and put a jumper in, or replace it with a more reliable one?

I've have my Cub10 in the cupboard for years and might look at getting it fixed (DIY).


That’s funny, I just dusted off my Cub10 this week. Mine works fine (actually sounds great) but has too much rattle for me to deal with.


You mean valve rattle? Just curious because I also had this issue with my Cub12R.


Yep sounds like it, but I’ve tried dampening everything I can get to but can’t isolate it. For me it wrecks a great amp, I could never play out with it. I havent payed it through a cab, which I should.
#827401
AiRdAd wrote:I'm getting a bit of valve rattle on my katana at the moment too! :-)


take it off the marshall head then
#827461
I believe the problem I have with my Cub10 is the "thermal" issue which is common with these amps. Basically a defective Chinese-made thermal cap that, after putting some hours on the amp, goes rogue and shuts the amp off at the first sign of heat. I have seen fixes online where you just remove the cap (bright yellow, easy to spot) and put a jumper in.

I might try and do this with my dad rather than take it to the shop. No point spending over $100 fixing a $200 amp.

In the beginning when it was working, it was a neat little grab/go.
#827462
MogwaiBoy wrote:I believe the problem I have with my Cub10 is the "thermal" issue which is common with these amps. Basically a defective Chinese-made thermal cap that, after putting some hours on the amp, goes rogue and shuts the amp off at the first sign of heat. I have seen fixes online where you just remove the cap (bright yellow, easy to spot) and put a jumper in.

I might try and do this with my dad rather than take it to the shop. No point spending over $100 fixing a $200 amp.

In the beginning when it was working, it was a neat little grab/go.


I agree they’re a neat grab and go. Surprising bass for a small amp too.