Self built and self assembly ;)

Moderators: Slowy, Capt. Black

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BY Bg
#838419
reminds me I need to make some wooden guitar stands. That one is 18 years old and falling apart now sadly :( They just don't build these things to last!
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BY Bg
#838420
Mike Clayton wrote:Does she thump?

She actually does everything I ask. The P-Bass is the swiss army knife of basses :) If you have only one bass, it has to be a P. I need one for roundwounds as well though lol.
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BY Mike Clayton
#838421
I had a Sunburst Fender 60th P-Bass for about 18 months (the diamond anniversary model) - I became our band's bass player after we lost the incumbent. That P-bass thumped alright! It had a wide neck which I struggled with at first, especially at the first fret. Got used to it after a while, about the same time as I stopped playing it like a guitar!!
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BY Bg
#838422
Thats the way, I've dipped in and out of bass and guitar over the years - and technique is so different.
Curiously if sitting I rest the bass naturally on the right leg, and guitar naturally on the left leg

I'm a big fan of the thinner wide necks on a P-Bass. they just feel so good.

So.... tweedy bass amps, wotcha got? :)
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BY Bg
#838424
Mike Clayton wrote:How 'bout The Original "Dual Rectifier" a 1956 Fender 5E6 Bassman...


No, stop it!
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BY Mike Clayton
#838438
Ha, quite a few I'd say. BUT..... I will be needing a Tweed Princeton 5F2-A cab soonish. That Bassman would be the ultimate tweed aye - and great for bass or guitar. Apparently the JTM45 is pretty much a direct copy of the 5E6 circuit. All those valves, rectifiers, large iron, 4 x speakers adds up. Maybe cash and contra :D
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BY Lyle
#838439
Bg wrote:As an aside, I taped some sandpaper to my sleeve and played for a few hours. When I was finished I noted where the scratching happened - thats where the wear pattern comes from. If I'd left that sandpaper on my sleeve for the next 20 years, I'd have got through that poly and the wear marks would be identical!

Rasp and belt sander, speeds up the process.


I was thinking of doing that on my tele but I'm not sure I've got the skills to do a convincing job.
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BY Bg
#838443
if its nitro, its easy with sandpaper. If its poly - thats about 3 mm thick so you need some BFG to get through it - rasp or belt sander with 100 grit. It takes seconds.
Then feather it out with differing grits. I do 220, 360, 480, 800 wet and dry, 1000 wet and dry. After that you should be left with the smallest of scratches. If not go back to 220 and start again - sadly. If you want to polish it to a gleam, you need to go further than 1000, but at that point I'd start with cutting compound. Which is where I left it. I wanted dull and thats what I got :)
User avatar
BY Lyle
#838448
Bg wrote:if its nitro, its easy with sandpaper. If its poly - thats about 3 mm thick so you need some BFG to get through it - rasp or belt sander with 100 grit. It takes seconds.
Then feather it out with differing grits. I do 220, 360, 480, 800 wet and dry, 1000 wet and dry. After that you should be left with the smallest of scratches. If not go back to 220 and start again - sadly. If you want to polish it to a gleam, you need to go further than 1000, but at that point I'd start with cutting compound. Which is where I left it. I wanted dull and thats what I got :)


Yeah it's poly, over 20 years old and still looking brand new. Might be a project for summer.
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BY Bg
#838449
Isn't it weird how tastes change. They moved to poly because nitro cracked and wore too easily. Yay for poly! It will look great for years :)
(ok it cures quicker too

Try some t-cut first, I'd do that with a drill and a polishing sponge. It may be enough else, you might want to go full level cutting compound. You can do it by hand but its a PITA
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BY Lyle
#838455
Bg wrote:Isn't it weird how tastes change. They moved to poly because nitro cracked and wore too easily. Yay for poly! It will look great for years :)
(ok it cures quicker too


That's the other issue, the clear poly coat on the fretboard is still going to look new!
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