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I have the Erlewine neck jig and use it regularly. I don't use it for fret removal or installation or slot/tang width sizing, I use it for fret levelling. Yes it is accurate and is definitely not the only way to do things to a high standard, but it makes life easier especially on things with non-adjustable truss rods.

I didn't buy the adjustable "Shop stand" that they market it with, I bought a welder stand on trademe for a pittance which looks identical but lacks the adjustment wheel which doesn't bother me. It was $500 cheaper than having the StewMac one sent here (not including G.S.T/Duty). The Vice that it comes with it decent, but the ratchet straps are rubbish (ratchet, even!) straight to Bunnings for an upgrade.

robnobcorncob wrote:I have the Erlewine neck jig and use it regularly. I don't use it for fret removal or installation or slot/tang width sizing, I use it for fret levelling. Yes it is accurate and is definitely not the only way to do things to a high standard, but it makes life easier especially on things with non-adjustable truss rods.

I didn't buy the adjustable "Shop stand" that they market it with, I bought a welder stand on trademe for a pittance which looks identical but lacks the adjustment wheel which doesn't bother me. It was $500 cheaper than having the StewMac one sent here (not including G.S.T/Duty). The Vice that it comes with it decent, but the ratchet straps are rubbish (ratchet, even!) straight to Bunnings for an upgrade.

This is what I was looking for! Cheers Rob!

PS- for leveling work, if you straight edge a neck using a slotted rule, and find the neck dead on (with strings removed, truss backed off or not) do you still use the jig to improve stability?

GrantB wrote: This is what I was looking for! Cheers Rob!

PS- for leveling work, if you straight edge a neck using a slotted rule, and find the neck dead on (with strings removed, truss backed off or not) do you still use the jig to improve stability?

I do, yes. I have used a vice in the past, along with a long neck rest etc. but for me I like having the guitar secured in the jig where it can't move around.

looming redundancy

Milk the fuck out of them

Hang on ...

robnobcorncob wrote:

GrantB wrote: This is what I was looking for! Cheers Rob!

PS- for leveling work, if you straight edge a neck using a slotted rule, and find the neck dead on (with strings removed, truss backed off or not) do you still use the jig to improve stability?

I do, yes. I have used a vice in the past, along with a long neck rest etc. but for me I like having the guitar secured in the jig where it can't move around.

You would have been better off using a vise.

sorry couldn't help it...

Bg wrote:

robnobcorncob wrote:

GrantB wrote: This is what I was looking for! Cheers Rob!

PS- for leveling work, if you straight edge a neck using a slotted rule, and find the neck dead on (with strings removed, truss backed off or not) do you still use the jig to improve stability?

I do, yes. I have used a vice in the past, along with a long neck rest etc. but for me I like having the guitar secured in the jig where it can't move around.

You would have been better off using a vise.

sorry couldn't help it...

Fuck no, working on a rock guitar? You NEED a vice baby, Jack coated electrics and coke dust over the finish FTW!

The man has a point

Once again my bench is cluttered as crap again..
I thought the Peavey Triumph was good to go, all recapped, horrid looms removed and with mostly balanced power tubes. It all works ultimately, but the crunch/ultra channels are quite a bit lower in volume output compared to the clean. Can't for the life of me figure out why.

Any tube amp gurus in the house that could spare a few mins to cast an eye over my marked up schematic with measurements to see what the heck I'm missing?

Cant help but there are some real good tube guys on the forum. Btw, is that a Philips scope you got there?

jvpp wrote:Cant help but there are some real good tube guys on the forum. Btw, is that a Philips scope you got there?

Nah a Tektronix. It works o.k, but I have trouble reading 3's and 9's on the measurement values.

GrantB wrote:if you straight edge a neck using a slotted rule

tried using one on my scalloped necks .... does not work at all on the ones I scallop myself (assuming it would work on the Malmsteen though)

robnobcorncob wrote:

GrantB wrote: This is what I was looking for! Cheers Rob!

PS- for leveling work, if you straight edge a neck using a slotted rule, and find the neck dead on (with strings removed, truss backed off or not) do you still use the jig to improve stability?

I do, yes. I have used a vice in the past, along with a long neck rest etc. but for me I like having the guitar secured in the jig where it can't move around.

So with your original set up was the concern that there was flex in the neck while levelling which the jig will take out? Leveling necks wothout a trussrod that are bowed would be a challenge!

Lostininverness wrote:

robnobcorncob wrote:

GrantB wrote: This is what I was looking for! Cheers Rob!

PS- for leveling work, if you straight edge a neck using a slotted rule, and find the neck dead on (with strings removed, truss backed off or not) do you still use the jig to improve stability?

I do, yes. I have used a vice in the past, along with a long neck rest etc. but for me I like having the guitar secured in the jig where it can't move around.

So with your original set up was the concern that there was flex in the neck while levelling which the jig will take out? Leveling necks wothout a trussrod that are bowed would be a challenge!

I think this is where the jog can be useful. I have in the past leveled a fingerboard (thick slab) to take out the permanent bow from non-trussed neck. This jig would be able to help do that - I just used clamps and tied the body down, like jvpp.

I think I'll end up getting the jig...once I've finished buying more gear I don't actually need.